Archive for August, 2007

What do you get when you take the port out of Portugal?

Tuesday, August 28th, 2007

Convento de Cristo, Manueline architecture dates to the gothic era.Why go from Spain to Morocco to France then back to Portugal? Well, we were going to skip Portugal, but then decided last minute that we should check it out. We managed to get some cheap flights on Ryan Air and Easy Jet, so we decided to go for it. We flew from Marseille, France to Porto, Portugal. Rented a car, and drove south to the Algarve, stopping on our way to a few different historic sites; more Roman ruins, a few castles, the Convento de Cristo in Tomar (see photo to left) which is the home to the Knights Templar. The architecture is incredible; part of the Manueline times, I think around the 1500’s when Portugal was a strong and growing nation.

Evening mass at Our Lady of Fatima We stopped in Fatima, where the Virgin Mary appeared to three young shepard children in 1917, and in 5 different apparitions reveled 3 secrets which foretold the future. Modern day Fatima is now a thriving holy destination for pilgrims. During the holiest of times, the faithful will walk hundreds of miles to visit the site, some of them will even come walking on their knees . Mass is said 2 or 3 times a day and in the evenings there is a candlelight vigil. Arriving late to the vigil, we were surprised to see a thousand or so worshippers. Although there is a basilica, the service is said outdoors in an open square.

IMG_2013After hearing so much about the Algarve, we had to visit and see for ourselves. So after a few days in Lisbon, we headed down to the Algarve. Since we were running out of time, we ended spending one day in Lagos, a nice beach town where the water is crystal blue.
It was worth the trip to see Portugal, but it’s quite clear that by comparison Portugal has not had the same economic growth as its neighboring countries in the EU. There isn’t nearly as much money coming in from tourism, and the towns appear a little more run down.
IMG_1934As for the food, I read that it was homestyle, and that the cuisine lacks formality even when dining out. Presentation is clearly not a selling point. I don’t know the Portuguese name of this dish, but it translates to “seafood on bread”. Turns out it’s bread mashed up with seafood and mustard was added, tableside.

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This soup is called alentejana, which our waiter said he grew up eating this since his family was so poor. The ingredients are water, salt, garlic, olive oil, parsley and sliced bread. Turns out with this dish both presentation and flavor was lacking with this dish.
I don’t know how it happened, but somehow we went to Portugal and never had time to try the port.

Easy Rider

Monday, August 27th, 2007

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Christine taught me how to drive a stick shift today.
I believe the mule ride in the mountains of Morocco may have been a smoother ride.

on France…

Saturday, August 25th, 2007

Flea market in Villeneuve-les-Avignon For work I have been to Paris more than a dozen times, and although I love shopping in Paris, I’ve never had the typical love affair with France that so many of my co-workers developed. So, it took me completely off guard to find the Provence region in France so enjoyable. We toured the Provence region stretching from Marseille to the Cote d’ Azur and Monoco. I’ve heard the rest of France is nothing like Paris, and now I believe it. The people are so incredibly nice, and it’s beautiful and peaceful in the country. We went to a weekend flea market in Villeneuve-les-Avignon, stayed amidst rolling vineyards at Chateau Juvenal (a restored home, now a B&B), tasted wine in Chateauneuf du Pape, visited many other Chateaux, Roman ruins, and the homes of Renoir and Van Gogh. All in all it was beautiful.

one in Barcelona, now one in Cannes So beautiful that when we arrived in the Cote d’Azur to visit Nice, Monaco and Cannes, I really wanted to escape back to the sleepy countryside we just left. Besides the beaches and a few museums there isn’t too much to do, except shop. AND, I do have to admit, while walking along Rue d’Antibes in Cannes, I momentarily forgot myself in the haziness of shopping. I felt the urge to go into every single boutique and scour it for anything “new”. I probably would have except for two things; Mike waiting around (although I did suggest heĀ  take a boat ride “somewhere”), and the fact that I can not fit anything else into my luggage. The Cote d’Azur is extremely beautiful and although the beaches live up to its namesake, I was happy when we retreated back into an old walled-city called Cagnes-Sur-Mer. As for France, I can see why people love it so much.

Are you ready for some foot-boulles?

Saturday, August 25th, 2007

Are you ready for some foot-boulles?
Don’t underestimate these guys. They are the most ruthless athletes in Cagnes sur Mer. They rule the boulles court here. Boulles is basically bocce ball but French. There’s lots of yelling and arguing over calls that can only be settled by bringing out the tape measure. Very exciting stuff. Perhaps we’ve found a new sport to follow since we won’t be seeing any Eagles games this year. B-O-U-L-L-E-S !


We came, we saw, we finally got in.

Friday, August 24th, 2007

Chateau Grimaldi in Cagnes-Sur-MerWe sucessfully entered Cagnes Sur Mer, a fortified walled village in the area surrounding Nice. Granated, there were no closing hours, tickets, lines or any other barriers to entry, but still. This is our home for the next 3 days. Not the place pictured above… that is the center point of the village, a chateau once owned by the Grimaldi family, who turns out were once a big deal in these parts. Our place is down a bunch of narrow curved streets. It’s like a little Hobbit village. Its also the town where Renoir spent his final years and we went to see his studio.

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Nice!

Friday, August 24th, 2007

Culinary contributions from Nice include the Nicoise salad, ratatouille, and socca. I had no idea what socca was before arriving in Nice. Walking around the city though, its pretty hard to miss as it is printed on many restaurant awnings advertising it. To me it sounded like an interesting drink I should try. Maybe because it sounds so much like “so-co” ( southern comfort). Turns out it is basically chick peas pureed with olive oil and baked in an oven or fried. It’s actually pretty good– kind of like a pancake or a crepe mashed up on your plate. And for 2 euro 50 cents it’s the cheapest thing you can buy in the Cote d’Azur.

socca, a nicoise favorite. made from chickpeassocca, a nicoise favorite. made from chickpeas

Chateau Juvenal

Friday, August 24th, 2007

Chateau Juvenal B&B

We stayed a few nights in the wine country of Provence at a chateau turned bed & breakfast called Chateau Juvenal. It was run by a French couple who retired here to run it and make wine from their vineyard. Sounds like a plan.

Where’s that confounded bridge?

Thursday, August 23rd, 2007

Pont Van Gogh which Van Gogh painted, and we spent 2 hours looking for

Vincent Van Gogh spent his final years in this little town called Arles. There’s lots of scenes around town that he painted, like the one above, the Langlois Bridge. Looks just like it, right? We had this lovely view all to ourselves and got to enjoy art in real life without another tourist in sight. How did we get so lucky? Well, the tourist office gives you a nice little map of town that includes all the Roman ruins as well as the Van Gogh sites that looks like this:

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The inset map is located right below it:

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I cropped some things out but it is very clear that the bottom map is a blowup of one of the main areas of the bigger map. So we arelooking for #38, Van Gogh’s bridge. Should be in the North right? Let’s drive on N570 towards Avignon just like the map tells us. Lets drive around, and around and around until someone tells us….no Van Gogh’s Bridge is in the south. Excuse moi Monseiur, this map clearly shows it is located in the North. “Oh no, can’t you see, they didn’t have room for #38 and #39 on the big map, so rather than placing them geographically where they belong, they decided to pretend like that section of the little map was still part of the big map and just overlay it like it was still in the south of the big map even though it now really appears to be in the north of the little map. That little pink arrow obviously indicates that those sites are meant to be in the map above. Makes sense, no?” You have to be kidding me.

We spent the next half hour discussing the logic behind the decision to make the map this way, convinced that we couldn’t be the first people to see the absurdity in it until we finally found the bridge. Not another soul in sight. I guess they were all up North driving around, and around, and around.

France is really old.

Tuesday, August 21st, 2007

Everywhere you look in Provence there is cool stuff to see. All within a few hours drive there are Roman ampitheaters and aqueducts…

Roman ampitheatre in Arles Pont du Gard Aquaduct was originally 31 miles when built in 19 B.C.

Hilltop forts and abbayes from the Middle Ages…

View of Fort St. Andre in Villeneuve-les-Avignon sacristy in the Abbey Montmajor

And former palaces of the French Popes.

Palais des Papes in Avignon

language

Sunday, August 19th, 2007

The language hasn’t really been an issue so far. In Spain you need to know that “vale” means is okay, and “si, si, si” means yes, yes, yes. Both of which are the most commonly used words in Spain. In addition, my Spanish vocabulary is fairly strong; it’s just stringing the words together to form a sentence that is the problem. But for the most part when speaking with someone, I can work out what is being said.

In France, more people seem to speak English than in Spain, so the only thing NOT to say is, ” qu’est-ce que c’est?” in French (which means, what is that?), or you’re likely to get an earful back in French, none of which you understand.

And in Morocco, it was odd, because their national language is Arabic and French, but the word I heard most while I was in Morocco was “ko-nee-chi-wa” which is hello in Japanese??

You know what they call a Quarter Pounder in France?

Saturday, August 18th, 2007

mmm... so international

Chateau D’If – Doh!

Saturday, August 18th, 2007

view of chateau d'if in Marseille Windy Marseille

In what seems to be becoming a theme, today we were shut out of yet another fortress. This time it was Chateau D’If in Marseille, France, the setting for the “Count of Monte Cristo.” Apparently it was too windy to sail there. Not sure I agree with them.

tentative schedule

Friday, August 17th, 2007

Some of you have been asking for our travel schedule. I can only hope that means you plan to meet up with us somewhere along the way…

FIB concert Aug 16-24 South of France
Aug 24-29 Porto, Lisbon, Faro
Aug 29- Sept 7. Corsica, Sardinia, and Sicily
Sept 7-14 Croatia
Sept 14-17 Slovenia
Sept 17-21 Budapest
Sept 22- Oct 6 Greece or Turkey
Oct 6-20 Greece or Turkey

By November we hope to be out of Europe and onto Egypt, Dubai, and other countries in Africa.

Morocco

Friday, August 17th, 2007

medina at dark Marrakech is overwhelming to the senses– between the stifling heat, the intense smell of diesel fuel and spices like tumeric & cumin, and the primitive sounds of drums coming from the medina, it can seem intimidating. Just as in the movies, there are snake charmers and acrobats in the square. It’s not just the sights and the sounds that make Marrakech feel so different, but the fact that it is a Muslim country. As an observer of the Islamic faith, the dress code is very conservative. Men and women should wear loose fitting clothing and reveal very little skin. So, not only is it 95 degrees, which by Moroccan standards is considered pleasant (apparently the week before the weather was 110 degrees), but most women are fully covered. I’ve been to marrakech once before about 8 years ago, and the feeling of stepping into another world was the same then as it is today.

no part goes to waste, even the sheep's head! This time around though, I was much more adventurous and ate at the outside foodstalls. Right in the Medina full of a hundred or so different food stalls to choose from. We had tagine (12 dirham), eggplant(5), kebabs(25), lentil soup(6), spiced olives(5) and of course, Morocco would not be complete with out its mint tea (1). Eight Dirham equals one dollar. Even though it might seem like a recipe for an upset stomach, we mostly stuck to the things that were either boiled or fried. We also did not try the lamb`s head sandwich and wash it down with the communal cup passed around with unfiltered water.

nice headpiece! While in Marrakech, we walked through the markets and went to the few sites in the city: the Katoubia, Bab Agnou, and the Saadien Tombs. Probably the highlight of the trip was our day trip to the Atlas Mountains. We did a short 4 km trek through several Berber villages, including Imlil.

Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee

Thursday, August 16th, 2007

ali, one of our guides

Our guide through the Berber Valley’s name was Mohamed. This is his partner, Ali.

A little bit “Times Square in New York”, a little bit “Escape From New York”

Thursday, August 16th, 2007

#11 – Hasta La Vista….baby

Saturday, August 11th, 2007

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Our time in Spain has come to an end. Tomorrow we head to Morocco.

Oh, Noooo, I’m so sorry. It’s the MOOPS. The correct answer is, The MOOPS.

Saturday, August 11th, 2007

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Today we spent the day exploring Granada, a small city at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains and famous for the Alhambra. According to the guidebook, the Alhambra is the best preserved Moorish fortress in the world. It’s located at the top of a extremely steep hill and like most forts, was obviously built to keep people out. Well, hundreds of years later, I’m unhappy to say it’s still doing a fine job of it. After a long hot hike up to the top, we were informed that in order to protect the monument, there were “No Moor” tickets left for today. (There’s no way of knowing for sure since it was a recorded anouncement, but I like to think they would spell it that way, making all the workers chuckle amongst themselves saying how that joke never gets old.) It seems that the very same fortress that held thousands of enemies at bay for centuries, supported an entire army of men and instilled fear in the hearts of villagers below, can only withstand the onslaught of 2000 camera wielding tourists a day. Dejected, we hiked back down and enjoyed the views from below.

Nerja Nightlife

Friday, August 10th, 2007

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This was quite an exciting end to our week in Nerja. First there were the flaming chorizo dogs at a place called the “Barrel Bar” where the power had gone out and the only lights in the place were the eerie illuminated porcelain pigs slowly roasting everyone’s pork on a stick.

This was followed by Tutti Frutti Plaza, which loosely translated into English means “Old City on a Friday Night”

All this was topped off by an excellent Flamenco performance, which I’m fairly certain featured a member of 38 Special on guitar.

our second visitor!

Friday, August 10th, 2007

tracy, as usual... We’ve only been on the road for 4 weeks, but we’ve had our second visitor. On her way to a yoga retreat in Italy, Tracy decided to stop in on us to check out the scene in Nerja, and dance her way through the town! First, there was the all-night dancing at Tutti Fruitti square, then the next night Tracy went on stage and danced Flemenco!